Tips for using a manual boat windlass
The windlass is essential mooring equipment on a boat or sailboat. There are different types of windlasses: vertical or horizontal windlass, manual or electric windlass. In the market you will find many brands of windlasses. Among the most popular among sailors, we distinguish for example: the Lewmar windlass, the Lofrans windlass, the Quick windlass, the Maxwell windlass, the Italwinch windlass, etc. Read this article if you want to know how a manual windlass works, how to anchor a boat, how to raise a boat anchor using the windlass, and how to tie a boat anchor. In addition to the mode of operation of a manual windlass, also discover in this article theuse of a manual windlass.
Contents of the page
What is a windlass?
This is a large winch used to cast and hoist anchor faster, easier, and more reliably. A windlass is equipment placed on the foredeck of a boat and has a horizontal or vertical axis if it is electric.
To choose between horizontal and vertical electric windlass, you have to take into account the space available on the deck and in the anchor locker. The height of fall is an important element. Vertical models generally require a minimum of 40cm drop height. While for those with a horizontal axis, a total height of the log of 30 cm is sufficient.
The manual windlass
When the windlass is operated by means of a small motor, it is called an electric windlass. And if it works with a crank, it will be more of a manual windlass.
Manual windlasses are lighter than electric windlasses. They are mainly used to unhook the anchor. They have the ability to haul up a heavy anchor with little effort. However, the ascent is very slow. They are ideal for a boat that does not have an electric charging system, or without a battery.
The electric windlass
Electric windlasses offer a lot of comfort and safety on board. Single-handed mooring maneuvers are easier and the raising of the anchor is much faster. They allow better control of the quantity of chain to be anchored on an inboard engine. The only drawback of electric models is the high energy consumption.
To learn more about electric windlasses, you can read our guide: How to choose your electric boat windlass?
The electric windlass with vertical axis
The vertical windlass is very popular because it contributes to easy installation on the foredeck and it is discreet on the deck. Besides, it has better traction force.
With this type of windlass, the gear motor is located below the deck and the gypsy is flat on the deck. To properly maintain the chain, the contact surface between the chain and the sprocket must be approximately 180 °.
It is essential that the axis of the davit is placed at 5 ° above the exit of the chain.
The horizontal axis electric windlass
Horizontal windlasses are even easier to install because the motor is placed on the deck. Indeed, the axis of rotation is housed in a structure accessible on the bridge. They are therefore perfectly suited for small sized buckets.
In addition, they are retractable in the anchor locker, which makes windlass maintenance simpler.
Here, the gypsy is at least 10 ° higher than the axis of the davit.
How does a manual windlass work?
To understand how to have a good use of a manual windlass, you have to know the different parts of the equipment.
The sprocket is a toothed wheel used to receive the chain to hoist the anchor. It must be adapted to the diameter of the chain. A 6mm or 8mm windlass chain can be used.
A manual windlass can also have a headstock which is a smooth drum useful for winding up the rope. This is the part where the rope part of an anchor is wound. These two elements are driven by a system of gears ensuring the reduction of the force.
We recommend the manual windlass:
- ITALWINCH Giglio with gypsy gear suitable for ø6 mm anchor chains
- LOFRANS Royal with a sprocket suitable for ø8 mm anchor chains
Our advice for using a manual boat windlass
It is important to master the use of a manual windlass to perform safe maneuvers.
In order to keep the boat at anchor, always check the mooring line to avoid the formation of knots.
Then you have to let the anchor slip vertically so that it hits the bottom. It is also necessary to count at least 3 times the height of water for the length of the chain (we recommend 5 times the height of water).
And when you let the anchor slide, be careful with your fingers. Afterwards, you will have to check if the anchor is properly hooked.
To avoid damaging the gears, do not never leave the chain on the sprocket during the wetting operation. We recommend the use of a hook connected to an anchor damper, itself connected to a mooring line with splice. The mooring is then stretched over one or more cleats until the chain tension on the gypsy is removed.
- See hooks for anchor chain ø 6 to 8 mm or ø 10 to 12mm
- See the best anchor shock absorber
- See mooring lines with ø 10, 12, 14, 16, 20 or 24 mm splices
The ascent speed by the manual windlass is slow. Indeed, the ascent of a 40 m mooring will take about 6 to 8 minutes. It is for this reason that the manual windlass is mainly used to unhook the anchor from the bottom. It is then preferable to raise the anchor by hand.
Our maintenance advice for a manual windlass
Finally, we explain how to maintain your equipment to avoid any windlass problem. Rinse the windlass with fresh water, do the same with the anchor locker.
You will also need to check the condition of the various parts and replace them with spare windlass parts, if necessary.
To change a sprocket, you can easily find a spare part online:
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X1 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X2 and PROJECT 1000 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X3 and PROJECT 1500 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS KOBRA / CAYMAN / TIGRES / ROYAL windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR CPX2 / 3 windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR V700 windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR Pro-Series Windlass
To change an excessively worn chain link, there are riveted chain links. It is advisable to always have a few on board (of the diameter corresponding to your chain) as well as a rivet pliers and rivets.
- See a good rivet pliers and these rivets
- See rivet links for ø 6 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 8 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 10 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 12 mm anchor chain
We advise you to use the riveted links above because they have breaking loads equivalent to or even greater than that of the original links. In addition, their dimensions in mm correspond exactly to those of anchor chains. Thus, you are sure to have a quality link that will not get caught on your gypsy.
Finally, we recommend that you always have a maintenance kit available for your windlass. You have to choose the kit corresponding to your model:
- See the Maintenance Kits for FALKON LOFRANS Windlasses
- See the Maintenance kits for TIGRES LOFRANS windlasses
- See the Maintenance Kits for ROYAL LOFRANS Windlasses
If you cannot find the maintenance kit for your model online, you can still purchase replacement parts:
- VSee the spare parts for Lewmar V3 and V2 windlass (Manual lifting kit)
- See the spare parts for Lewmar V3 and V2 windlass (Control arm kit)
- See spare parts for Lofrans Tigres windlass
- See spare parts for Lofrans Tigres windlass (Spare gasket)
- See spare parts for Lofrans X2 windlass
- See spare parts for Lofrans X3 and PROJECT 1500 windlass
You will find many other parts on Amazon, Ebay et Ticketmaster.
Once a year, it is advisable to remove all the axes (gypsy, headstock, etc.) to clean them and lubricate them. For this, it is necessary to use marine grease.
How to create a suitable mooring line for your manual windlass?
Your mooring is not just about the manual windlass. All the elements of the mooring line must be adapted to each other to work in harmony. The davit adapts to the anchor, the chain to the windlass, the anchor swivel to the cable, etc ... Otherwise, you will quickly encounter problems. It is therefore imperative to choose all the elements of your mooring line. We explain everything in our article: how to make an appropriate mooring line for your boat?
