GUIDE: What type of windlass should I choose for my boat?
Which windlass for my boat? Beyond safety issues, raising an anchor by hand is a real physical exercise. Whether you own a sailboat, motor boat or fishing boat, a windlass is a real relief for your back. Yes, but which windlass to choose for your boat? The opinions of old sea dogs are sometimes contradictory and many parameters come into play, so much so that it is easy to get lost. Follow our little guide to answer the question: what type of windlass should I choose for my boat?
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The parameters to take into account when choosing which type of windlass is suitable for your boat
The windlass is positioned at the bow of the boat. It is part of your mooring equipment with your anchor, the davit, the mooring line (chain and / or cable) and deck equipment such as a cleat, a post or a stop system for the chain. The choice of the windlass must take these elements into account so that the assembly works in unison and ensures serene anchorages. Moreover, to have an overview on all these elements, we recommend that you read our article: how to make an appropriate mooring line for your boat?
In addition to the deck layout criteria or comfort, here are the parameters to consider when defining what type of windlass suits you:
- the space available and the configuration on and under the deck;
- the size and depth of your anchor locker;
- the composition of your mooring line: 6mm chain, 8mm chain or other, cable or mixed;
- the weight of your anchor (anchor + chain);
- the power of your boat's electrical system.
What type of windlass to choose: an electric or manual windlass?
Nowadays, beyond a certain size of boat, the electric windlass is part of the standard equipment. However, there are still configurations where a manual windlass is a wise choice and where the question of what type of windlass arises.
Electric windlass: ease and safety at anchor
Subject to having the necessary electric power, electric windlasses are easy to use and have few drawbacks. Robust in design, they allow you to haul up a mooring quickly, without fatigue and in safety whatever the conditions. They are equipped with a remote control for windlass, with or without wire, and are therefore a real asset for small crews.
The electric windlass contributes to the safety of the boat and the crew by facilitating anchorages. The decision to change fairground anchorage depending on the weather or sea conditions is then easier to make.
The prices vary with the power, and the difference will be more marked with the manual version as the power is high.
Manual windlass: ideal for small boats
For smaller units that do not have a large electric power (small sailboat, semi-rigid, etc.), the electric windlass is excluded.
The manual windlass may then be a good choice to facilitate raising the anchor in rough conditions. With zero power consumption, they make it possible to multiply the efforts without additional fatigue.
However, their usefulness remains limited due to their very low speed of raising the anchor, in particular compared to the speed of an electric windlass. Usually, they are only used to tear off the anchor for the first few meters. The raising of the mooring line is done by hand.
What type of windlass to choose between a vertical or horizontal windlass?
A vertical or horizontal windlass refers to the positioning of the motor. What type of windlass to choose depends on the installation configuration.
Vertical windlass: the most efficient and aesthetic
They are the most common nowadays and have a small footprint on the bridge, limited to the gypsy and possibly the tailstock. The electric motor is below deck and little exposed to the sea. In addition, the chain winds around half the circumference of the gypsy and is therefore better held in place when raising the anchor.
In return, the installation requires improvements and there must be space to house the windlass motor under the deck. If it is in the anchor locker, it must be ensured that the chain can pile up while maintaining a distance of 40 cm from the bridge.
Horizontal windlass: for boats with a small anchor locker
These one-piece models simply fit onto the deck. They do not require any adjustment of the anchor locker if the distance between the top of the chain bundle and the bridge is 30 cm. Everything being in the same place, the maintenance of the windlass is facilitated.
Generally totally visible, they are exposed to bad weather and to the sea. On the other hand, the chain only makes a quarter of a turn on the gypsy and can "jump" out of the notches (especially when the links are worn by rust. ) while raising the anchor.
Which windlass power to choose?
We offer you this little guide to calculate the power you need and know which windlass to choose.
A windlass is characterized by its power and its breakout force (or maximum force). To choose the power of your windlass, it is recommended that its maximum force be greater than 5 times the mass of your heaviest anchor (by adding the weight of the anchor, chain, cable possibly and any other accessory) .
First step: calculating the weight of your chain
Excluding accessories (nozzles, additional weights, tail assembly, etc.), the mass of your chain depends on the diameter of the links (the linear density in kg per meter) and on its length.
| Chain type (ISO standard) | Weight per meter (in kg) |
| 6 mm | 0,8 |
| 8 mm | 1,4 |
| 10 mm | 2,2 |
| 12 mm | 3,2 |
(You can find more details, if necessary, in our article on windlass power.)
Regarding the length of your chain, for recreational navigation and day trips, 5 times the length of your boat is generally sufficient. The mass of your chain is then:
Mass of your chain = 5 x (length of your boat in meters) x (linear density of your chain in kg / m).
Calculation of the breakout force to know which type of windlass to choose
To determine the minimum breakout force of your windlass, a good approximation is then given by the following formula:
Tearing force = 5 x (mass of your anchor + mass of your chain).
You then need a windlass with a breakout force or maximum force greater than this value.
For example, a 10 meter sailboat theoretically has a 50 meter long chain. This chain must be 8mm in diameter and its anchor weighing at least 14kg. (you will find a table explaining what the anchor weight and recommended chain, shackle and rope diameter is based on the length of your boat in our article on mooring lines). For such a sailboat, the calculation of the minimum recommended windlass power is therefore:
Chain mass = 5 x (11m x 1,4) = 77kg
Minimum windlass power (Breakout force) = 5 x (14kg + 77kg) = 455W
(If you have a cable, this number will be higher.)
This sailboat will therefore have to buy a windlass with a power of at least 500W.
General rule of thumb to know the recommended windlass power
Theory is one thing, but what do windlass builders recommend in practice? In real life, boats are usually equipped with more powerful windlasses than necessary. This can be explained for three reasons. First, windlass brands prefer to recommend more powerful windlasses for safety reasons. Second, it is customary to have a relief anchor heavier than its main anchor in inclement weather. The windlass must therefore be able to operate with both anchors. Finally, third, many boaters prefer to oversize the power of their windlass in order to make the equipment faster and prevent it from overheating. Thus, the general rule applied is as follows:
-For a 6-meter boat that has an inboard motor, you can settle for a pulling power of 500 watts.
- between 6 and 8 meters, a force of 700 watts is sufficient.
- from 8 to 10 meters, a luff of 1000 watts is required.
- from 10 to 15 meters, you will have to choose 1500 watts.
- Beyond 15 meters, the boats have windlasses of 1700W.
Which brand of windlasses to choose: Lewmar, Lofrans or other?
The main manufacturers of windlasses are Lewmar, Lofrans, Quick, Plastimo, Maxwell and Italwinch. All of them offer a wide range of electric windlasses of 500w, 700w, 1000w, 1200w or 1500w, manual, horizontal, vertical, stainless steel, aluminum, with or without wireless remote control, etc.
Equivalent in terms of quality, the choice is made by personal preferences, budget, availability of spare parts for the windlass or for specific needs. Do not hesitate to consult our comparison of the different brands of windlasses to know our opinion in more detail!
Depending on the configuration of your installation on your motor boat or sailboat, choose the windlass model that best suits you.
Choose the type of windlass best suited to your boat
Now that you've determined:
- if your boat can have an electric windlass or if it has to be satisfied with a manual,
- if your boat has enough room in the anchor locker for a vertical electric windlass or if you need a horizontal axis windlass,
- if your boat needs power of 500W, 700W, 1000W, 1500W or 1700W.
All you have to do is choose the brand and model of the windlass according to your budget.
NB:
- Always check that the windlass gypsy is the same diameter as the links of your anchor chain!
- Choose a voltage suitable for the electrical installation on your boat (12 or 24 volts).
- The doll is used to reassemble the cable. But be aware that the models without headstock are equipped with a mixed gypsy which accepts mooring lines composed of chain and cable.
The best manual windlasses
- See the ITALWINCH Giglio manual windlass with headstock and a ø6 mm gypsy
- See the ITALWINCH Giglio manual windlass with headstock and a ø8 mm gypsy
- See the LOFRANS Royal manual windlass with headstock and a ø8 mm gypsy
The best horizontal axis electric windlasses
| Windlass make and model | Wattage | Sprocket diameter | 12V or 24V | With or without doll |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maxwell HRC 6 | 600 W | Ø6mm | 12V | without |
| Maxwell HRC 8 | 600 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Maxwell HRC 10-8 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Maxwell RC 10-8 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Maxwell HRC 10-10 | 1200 W | Ø10mm | 12V | with |
| Lewmar Pro-1000 Series | 700 W | Ø6mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Lewmar VX1L | 800 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 24V | with |
| Lewmar VX3 | 1500 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX3 | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Devon | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Devon | 1000 W | Ø10mm | 24V | with |
| Italwinch Devon | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Devon | 1500 W | Ø8mm | 24V | with |
| Italwinch Devon | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 24V | with |
The best electric vertical axis windlasses
| Windlass make and model | Wattage | Sprocket diameter | 12V or 24V | With or without doll |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quick Prince DP3 1512 | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 12V | without |
| Lofrans Dorado | 500 W | Ø6mm | 12V | without |
| Lofrans Dorado | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lofrans Kobra | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Lewmar VX1 | 300 W | Ø6-7mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX1 | 500 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX1L | 800 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Lewmar VX2 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 24V | without |
| Italwinch Smart | 500 W | Ø6mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Smart V | 500 W | Ø6mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Obi500 | 700 W | Ø6mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Smart | 700 W | Ø6mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Smart | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Obi500 | 700 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Smart V | 800 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Obi1000 | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Smart Plus | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 12V | with |
| Italwinch Smart Plus | 1000 W | Ø8mm | 24V | with |
| Italwinch Smart Plus | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 12V | without |
| Italwinch Obi1400 | 1500 W | Ø8mm | 24V | without |
| Italwinch Obi1400 | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 24V | without |
| Italwinch Smart Plus | 1500 W | Ø10mm | 24V | with |
| Italwinch Smart Plus | 1700 W | Ø10mm | 24V | without |
The best accessories for windlass
You can purchase a foot switch and install it flat on the deck. It is the most efficient for maneuvers.
If you want to control your windlass remotely, you have the choice between wired or wireless remote controls:
- See the Italwinch remote control
- See the Lofrans remote control
- See the Lofrans wireless remote control
- See the Quick wireless remote control
Also, to avoid damaging the windlass gears, never leave the chain on the sprocket during the wetting operation. We recommend the use of a hook connected to an anchor damper, itself connected to a mooring line with splice. The mooring is then stretched over one or more cleats until the chain tension on the gypsy is removed.
- See hooks for anchor chain ø 6 to 8 mm or ø 10 to 12mm
- See the best anchor shock absorber
- See mooring lines with ø 10, 12, 14, 16, 20 or 24 mm splices
Then it's always good to have spare parts in case your windlass gets damaged. The sprocket wears out due to the passage of the chain. If it no longer catches the chain effectively, you need to change it. You can easily find a spare part online:
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X1 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X2 and PROJECT 1000 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS X3 and PROJECT 1500 windlass
- Sprocket for LOFRANS KOBRA / CAYMAN / TIGRES / ROYAL windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR CPX2 / 3 windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR V700 windlass
- Sprocket for LEWMAR Pro-Series Windlass
To increase the life of your sprocket, you must change the chain links that are too worn or rusted. For this, there are chain links to rivet. It is advisable to always have a few on board (of the diameter corresponding to your chain) as well as a rivet pliers and rivets.
- See a good rivet pliers and these rivets
- See rivet links for ø 6 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 8 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 10 mm anchor chain
- See rivet links for ø 12 mm anchor chain
We advise you to use the riveted links above because they have breaking loads equivalent to or even greater than that of the original links. In addition, their dimensions in mm correspond exactly to those of anchor chains. Thus, you are sure to have a quality link that will not get caught on your gypsy.
Finally, we recommend that you always have a maintenance kit for your windlass on board. You have to choose the kit corresponding to your model:
- See the Maintenance Kits for FALKON LOFRANS Windlasses
- See the Maintenance kits for TIGRES LOFRANS windlasses
- See the Maintenance Kits for ROYAL LOFRANS Windlasses
If you can't find the maintenance kit for your model online, you can always buy spare parts so you can repair your windlass on long trips:
- VSee the spare parts for Lewmar V3 and V2 windlass (Manual lifting kit)
- See the spare parts for Lewmar V3 and V2 windlass (Control arm kit)
- See spare parts for Lofrans Tigres windlass
- See spare parts for Lofrans Tigres windlass (Spare gasket)
- See spare parts for Lofrans X2 windlass
- See spare parts for Lofrans X3 and PROJECT 1500 windlass
You will find many other parts on Amazon, Ebay et Ticketmaster in order to leave with peace of mind!
Finally, once you have purchased a suitable windlass for your boat, don't forget to maintain it properly! You must grease it with suitable marine grease every 2 months if you are sailing or at the end of each season before wintering. Must also check the oil level from time to time and change it every two years (use only SAE 80W-90 oil for your windlass). For more information on the maintenance cycles of a windlass, you can read our article: How to clean a windlass on a boat?
Learn more about boat windlasses:
TUTORIAL: How to dismantle a windlass on a boat?
